Tuesday, April 14, 2015

Script for downloading all Popular Electronics magazines

The great page http://www.americanradiohistory.com/ has got loads and loads of old radio and electronics magaizines for download. Among these are the venerable Popular Electronics magazine which was published between October 1954 and October 1982. These old magazines are really great, not only for historic reasons and for fun, but there are also lots of electronic circuits, loadspeaker designs, and more in there that you can still build directly from the articles or you can use them as inspiration for new projects.


The most famous issue is probably the January 1975 issue presenting the Altair 8800 computer kit. Now you can build your own based on the original instructions :-)

I have made a simple Python script that downloads all the 337 isssues of the Popular Electronic magazine. The script is based on a script from Peter B. Mark that downloads all 73 ham radio magazines from arxive.org (btw, a highly recommended magazine).

Using the script, I can read through all the editions on my iPad even when I am offline, for example when I am waiting for my flight on an airport with nothing else to do and no WiFi.

Disclaimer: The whole bunch of magazines will occupy about 3.5GB of disk space. Furthermore, the naming of the directories on americanradiohistory is not concise, so the script might seem a bit crappy. But it works! Feature: If you exit the script while it runs, it will not download previously downloaded magazines when you restart. Good luck.

#!/usr/bin/python
"""
Download pdfs of Popular Electronics Magazine

"""
import os
import urllib2
import urllib

START_YEAR = 1954
END_YEAR = 1982
OUTPUT_DIR = "PopularElectronics"

MISSING = ('PopularElectronics/Pop-1954-01.pdf', 'PopularElectronics/Pop-1954-02.pdf', 'PopularElectronics/Pop-1954-03.pdf', 'PopularElectronics/Pop-1954-04.pdf', 'PopularElectronics/Pop-1954-05.pdf', 'PopularElectronics/Pop-1954-06.pdf', 'PopularElectronics/Pop-1954-07.pdf', 'PopularElectronics/Pop-1954-08.pdf', 'PopularElectronics/Pop-1954-09.pdf')


def main():
    if not os.path.exists(OUTPUT_DIR):
        os.mkdir(OUTPUT_DIR)
    downloadPopMag("Pop")
    downloadPopMag("Poptronics")

def downloadPopMag(prefix):
    for year in range(START_YEAR, END_YEAR + 1):
        for month in range(1,13):
            fileName = "%s/Pop-%d-%02d.pdf" % (OUTPUT_DIR, year, month)
            if not os.path.exists(fileName) and fileName not in MISSING:
urlyear = year - 1900
tenyear = urlyear - (urlyear % 10)
strtenyear = str(tenyear) + "s"                
if(urlyear > 69):
urlyear = year

editionString = "%s-%d-%02d" % (prefix, year, month)

url = "http://www.americanradiohistory.com/Archive-Poptronics/%s/%d/%s.pdf" % (strtenyear, urlyear, editionString)
                print("Downloading: %s..." % url)
                print("To: %s" % fileName)
                try: pdfData = urllib2.urlopen(url).read()
except urllib2.HTTPError as e:
# Probably wrong prefix. Try with the other prefix later
print e.code
else:
                outFile = open(fileName, "wb")
                outFile.write(pdfData)
                outFile.close()
            else:
                print("Skipping: %s" % fileName)


if __name__ == "__main__":
    main()





Monday, March 23, 2015

Receiving JT65 with RTL-SDR

A couple of weeks ago I bought a RTL-SDR (software defined radio receiver) dongle with the 820T2 tuner chip. You just cant beat the fun/price ratio on this one. For 11$ (with free shipping) it is a bargain, and it is a great way to learn about radios (at least the reception part).

A bargain on AliExpress

Initially I used Gqrx on my Mac to communicate with the RTL-SDR, but eventually I had to resort to SDR# on Windows 7, as it has a bit more features. I have the impression that most radio (and ham-stuff) is made for Windows rather than Mac or Linux.


Apparently not much activity on 10m, but JT65 lurks there in the noise
Even with the standard antenna I had no problem receiving FM broadcast between 88-108 MHz, DAB around 200 MHz, some public transport transmitting FM on 151 MHz and some sporadic narrow FM around 140 MHz. I could also see that there was a lot of activity on 434 MHz and 868MHz bands from car keys, weather transmitters, baby calls and so on.

A few JT65 signals in the WSJT-X waterfall
However, what I really wanted to receive was amateur radio digital modes JT65 and PSK31 on the HF bands (preferably on 10m and 20m). I made a half-wave dipole for the 10m band (28MHz), and soldered the coax directly on the board. The RTL-SDR seem very noisy on HF and all I got initially was a weak RTTY signal on 10 m (which I was unable to decode), and a brief SSB-reception. I guess that one reason for the bad performance is that the strong FM broadcast signals on 88-108MHz interferes with the lower frequency bands.

Receiving JT65 in WSJT-X

However, after a bit of tweaking with the audio levels in SDR# and WSJT-X, I was able to receive some JT65 messages. It was incredibly fun to receive signals from Spain, Russia, South Africa and Brazil (among others) on this 11$ stick and my home-made dipole antenna. (Now I finally understand what the amateur radio people are so intrigued about.)

Received JT65 on 10 m from ZS6KMD in South Africa (9715km)
JT65 on 10m from PY2RED in Brazil (10550km)

Obviously, there are some improvements that can be done with the RTL-SDR to help HF reception. A FM-broadcast bandpass filter would eliminate the interference from the strong FM broadcast transmiters. As I am mainly interested in HF, and do not care about the performance above 30MHz, a simple low-pass filter at 30MHz will probably also do the trick.  Better shielding and filtering on USB can also help. Many folks are also using an upconverter, for example the Ham-it-up, which is undoubtedly the way to go to improve HF sensitivity.

Although I might try to improve HF reception on the RTL-SDR later, I will rather go building a Softrock RXTX SDR Tranceiver. The said kit is already on my workbench, and the soldering iron is hot. More to come...

Wednesday, February 25, 2015

DIYcrap audio mixer #3. FV-1 Reverb

This is part 3 of "building an audio mixer with effects". For part 1 go here, and for part 2, go here.



The mixer is working fine, and already has got two PT2399 circuits for delay. But now it is time to add some reverb. For reverb I decided to use an FV-1 based design. Experimental Noize has some nice small boards built around this chip, preprogrammed for different purposes. I decided to go for the SKRM-C8-R02 Mono-In/Stereo Out reverb and delay module.


I wanted to use a rotary switch to select between the different programs. The SKRM data sheet proposes to use a 74HC148 8 to 3 Line Priority Encoder for this purpose. Hence, there is a need for a small PCB to mount the SKRM and the 74HC148 (in addition to some additional components). Although I have used KiCad and OSH Park for PCB production previously, I wanted to test Fritzing for this small project.



I drew a quick diagram in Fritzing, swithced to PCB-view and the auto-router took care of the rest (at least most of it).


After a about ten days the card arrived in my mailbox.


The board came out quite nicely. Although I am very satisfied with the result, I do not think I will use Fritzing for my next project. OSH Park and other alternatives are way cheaper, and I think the Fritzing software is a bit limited compared to Eagle or KiCad (and even if the Fritzing-software is very simple to use, Eagle and KiCad are not that difficult to learn). The files are available at the Fritzing-site in case you are interested.


It took about 10 minutes to add the few components :-). It is only a 74HC148, a capacitor and a pull up resistor network.



Then I slammed the SKRM on top of it, soldered the connectors, and started jamming with some heavy reverb. But wait, I forgot one thing, namely to securely mount the PCB inside the mixer. A simple solution is to screw standoffs to the front panel, but the screws would interfere with the front panel design. I could also glue the standoffs to the front panel, but I just hate to glue things together when there is a slight chance that I might want to dismantle it later.



Hence, I created a plate to screw the PCB standoffs to, that is fastened with the rotary switch. It is designed in OpenSCAD and 3D-printed.


The above picture show how it looks like inside the mixer. Notice that the plate (in pink) is fastened together with the rotary switch.



The above picture show how the mixer looks like inside. The SKRM is driven by a LM7805 which is connected to the +12V rail (the blue heatsink can be seen on the bottom part of the picture). The circuit draws about 170mA, even if the data sheet states it should be less than 75mA. The reason? I do not know.



DIYcrap mixer. Now with reverb.

Monday, February 2, 2015

Building an enclosure for Mutable Instruments Shruthi-1

About a year ago I ordered a Shruthi-1 PCB and a Four Pole Mission PCB from Mutable instruments. After sourcing the components, it was a quick and enjoyable build. The synth has, however, been sitting in my drawer for a long time waiting for an enclosure.



First, I thought of buying the metal enclosure from Mutable Instruments. Besides the fact that the metal enclosure costs ¢55 (not a bad price, but still), I had, due to financial reasons, used different buttons than those recommended my Mutable Instruments. Since I had no intention to change those, I had to make my own enclosure.


Before bragging about my design I have to inform you that there is an excellent downloadable enclosure out on Thingiverse:284637. I tried it, but I just could not get it to print nice on my small RepRap Huxley.


I used OpenSCAD since it is Open Source and pretty nerdy. The box is pretty simple (and boxy), but takes only a couple of hours to print and consists of only three parts.


I created small cylinders for the LEDs. In this way they are highly visible on the front panel although the PCB is about 10mm below the panel. The cylinders also ensures that there is no light leakage from one LED opening to the next.


The final case looks ok. However, the Shruthi is not the easiest synth to use, at least when none of the buttons are labeled in any way. Therefore, I waned to create a panel with labels on.




Using the command "projection(cut=false)", the 3D drawing of the front panel can be converted to 2D. Then it is possible to export a DXF-file which can be imported in Inkscape. I learned this technique from this blog.


Once imported in Inkscape, I can create some text and stuff on the front panel. I used the same approach as I did on my mixer, and printed the front panel on some piece of colored thick paper.


Before laminating the paper, I cut out the opening for the display with an exacto knife and punched 3mm holes for the LEDs with a drill bit.



I had to extend the buttons with some Sugru to make the hight appropriate for the front panel. Looks a bit strange, but it works surprisingly good.




This is the final unit. You can download the design files on thingiverse if you like, and hack the heck out of it. The OpenSCAD-file is parametrized and it should be fairly easy to alter the design for whatever buttons you might have.


Here goes some additional pictures.

The front panel is secured with the nuts on the five potmeters.


The back plate is secured with the plastic nuts on the audio jacks.

Thursday, January 22, 2015

DIYcrap audio mixer #2

This is part 2 of "building an audio mixer with effects". For part 1, go here.

The mixer is coming along quite nicely. Thanks to the excellent documentation on the Music From Outer Space web site and the professional quality on the PCBs, I had no problem soldering the four boards together.

The DIYcrap audio mixer
The picture above shows how the mixer looks. The different features of the mixer will be explained as we go. First, lets take a look into the assembly of the mixer.

Testing how the jack plugs and the knobs fit the front panel layout
As explained in part 1, I created the layout in Inkscape. I printed out a test on normal paper, just to check if all the knobs and plugs fitted nicely.

Running the paper through the laminator

After a few minor errors had been sorted out, I printed out the overlay on a piece of orange paper (I wanted the mixer to look a bit vintage and a bit seventees), and laminated it. This is the method proposed by MFOS and is by far the most economical approach to making synth front panels.

The panel is glued to the aluminum Bud-box

After the front panel was sorted out, it was time to fit the PCBs.

The PCBs
The PCBs are mounted on the back-plate of the Bud-box. From left to right in the above picture: Power supply, MFOS auto panner, two MFOS Echo FXXX (on top of each other), and MFOS panning mixer.

MFOS auto panner
Two stacked MFOS Echo modules
The MFOS panning mixer
All the MFOS-components are now mounted in the mixer cabinet and works flawlessly. The stuff that remains are, the SKRM FV1 reverb unit, a highpass filter, and a distortion unit. 

Testing the mixer with a function generator and oscilloscope
Thats it for now. The next part will (probably) cover installment of the the SKRM FV-1 module i purchased from Experimental Noize.

Thursday, December 25, 2014

Converting a BK Precision 2831A bench multimeter to 220V supply

I just came across a BK Precision 2831A bench multimeter (for free). I do not know the age or the general reputation of the unit, but it seems to be a rather low-end 3-1/2 digit multimeter. Nevertheless, another multimeter might come in handy.

An old BK Precision 2831A (on top of something else)

The device is supposedly only meant for the US marked and is labeled 120V, so I could not test it right away. First, I thought of buying a 120V/240V transformer, but good quality ones does not come for free.

It is labeled 120V on the back side

Based on the labels on the circuit board (GDM-558D), it seems like this unit is a relabeled GW Instek multimeter of some kind. It is probably ins the same family as the GW Instek GDM-8034 (or the GDM-8135, although it has a circuit board marked GDM-625A). The accuracy of those two devices (DC volt) are 0.5% and 0.1% respectively, whereas the BK is reportedly 0.1%.

The circuit board also has some markings indicating that the transformer has two primary windings that can be coupled in parallel for 120V usage (marked as 114V on the circuit board) or in series for 240V usage (marked as 234V on the circuit board).

Typical configuration for switching between 110V and 220V with two primary windings.

Normally, units with such a transformer has a switch on the back, making it usable for both 120V and 240V mains supply, but this multimeter has no such switch. However, there are some resistors on the board that can be replaced to allow for the higher voltage setting.

Zero-ohm resistors configured for 120V (117V)  mains supply

Zero-ohm resistor configured for 240V (234V) mains supply

All there is to do is to remove the two resistors (and resolder one of them), and voila, the multimeter is ready for european voltages. In addition, the main fuse should be reduced to about 2/3 of its original size.

As indicated on the first image, the multimeter now works on 230V (or 220V/234V/240V or whatever). I cannot report on the quality on the device itself, such as the accuracy in taking measurements, but it seems to be fairly close to my Fluke 8050A so at least it is not damaged or anything. Hurray!



Monday, December 1, 2014

DIYcrap audio mixer #1

Introduction


During the last year I have built four synthesizers: a MFOS Noise Toaster, a x0xb0x, a Shruthi, and a Sonic Potions LXR drum machine. Hence, now I have an urgent need for an audio-mixer, and I have decided to build one, DIYcrap-style.

Modules


The mixer is based on the MFOS Stereo Panning Mixer. This circuit board uses TL071 and TL072 opamps and gives four mono input channels each with panning two effect send loops. In addition there are two stereo inputs, a headphone amplifier and stereo out to drive an external amplifier or recording unit.

I also need some built-in effects. The first effect is the MFOS ECHO FXXX. This is a PT2399-based delay module, and I am going to use two of these. Hence, they can be used in parallel (for awesome stereo effects), in serial (for super-long delays), or individually on two different mono-sources.

The second must-have effect is Reverb. I will use the SKRM-C8-R02 Reverb/Delay from
www.experimentalnoize.com. This unit is based on the Spin Semiconductor FV-1 and comes preprogrammed with a few stereo reverb and delay effects. With some additional circuitry it should fit nicely with the stereo mixer.

The last effect I am going to add is distortion (or fuzz). I have yet to create this module but i might try out the MFOS fuzz module to begin with.  The fourth module is also from MFOS and is a Stereo Auto Panner. Hopefully, this unit will provide some cool effects. Lastly, since delay and reverb does not fit nicely with low frequencies, I am going to add a variable high pass filter for the effect out part of the mixer. I might give this variable 20-200Hz filter a try.

Panel


One of the biggest challenges with the mixer is to create the front panel. Inspired by the latest Soundlab MkII from MFOS I decided to use the BUD-box AC-423. It is a 17x7 inch box in aluminium.
The status now is that I have soldered most of the boards and I have created the first version of the front panel in Inkscape.


First prototype of the layout (some text is missing)

The design is inspired by other MOTM-style synth-panels, like this one.

I also got useful tips about creating front panels in Inkscape here. Schaeffer is a popular choice for manufacturing the front panel. A more DIY-ish solution is to use LazerTran. However, I will probably just laminate an A3 paper and glue it to the AC-423 in the first version.

This project is still work-in-progress, and I will use this blog as my build log and as a place-holder for all the links I collect.